On these
pages I have further a possible final design idea. I have chosen this one
because it is very on trend, very wearable for my customer and her occasion,
and when well made, can be a couture garment. To start with, I tweaked my
design, to the best suited. I played with the length of the skirt, ruffles,
culottes and neckline. I think that the first or the fourth design will work
well, and I will consider this if this design becomes my final. To experiment
with how I would go about making the skirt and what techniques needs to be used
would be helpful when choosing my material and how difficult it would be to do.
I started by drawing around a mini manikin skirt block, adding in the darts and
sewing up the seams, then putting it on the manikin for sizing guidelines. I
decided to take up the hem by 7.5 cm, and replace it with ruffles the same
length. I added 5cm onto each panel, adding an extra 20cm, I cut this out and sewed
as usual. I went about the best way of creating subtle ruffles, by turning the
machine stitch to 4, not back tacking and pulling the thread to gather. I then
sewed to my garment. I will experiment with this further, changing the lengths
of the skirt and the ruffles, depending on how I decide to make my culottes.
My second design development is use of the ‘kakurenbo’ hide
and seek technique taken from the first Pattern Magic book, referenced in my
action plan. To begin, I drew out the pattern shape as shown in the book by free-hand.
I did it to full size, as shown in my book, and halved it to fit my mini basic
bodice block for the mini manikin. I had to adapt my basic bodice to include
the ruffle technique, to do this, I did not cut my front piece on the fold –
therefore having 2 pieces with a split up the centre. I then cut out my pieces
in calico, sewed up the front seam and darts. I followed the instructions in
the Pattern Magic Book and my pleat turned out to be a success. This method is
a clean, understated look that is minimal with a geometric shape on the front,
which fits my theme and concept very well. However, I would like to challenge
myself a lot more with something that requires higher skills.
I have adapted this design of a shift dress with detailed
side panels and a pocket, into a two-piece skirt and top, with matching prints
and decorative techniques. I have developed the design to create more, and
explore its possible outcomes better. I decided to test my new design by
creating a part of it, I chose the skirt and used a basic skirt block. On my
previous mood boards, specifically the Issy Miyake mood board, I experimented
with recreating the effects on her designs by pink tucking Tyvek, I found this
worked well and each side of the material was effective – making it double
sided. I could possibly use this to create a reversible garment. I began by
pin-tucking the Tyvek. I then used this material and a printed geometric
fabric, to create the skirt. I found the contrast between the two prints worked
well. However, Tyvek is a delicate material that would be prone to tears and
would not suit my customer for her specific events due to weather and a
possible stage performance. I would need to recreate this using a more suitable
fabric.
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