COSTING SHEET AND LAY PLANS
After finalizing my garment, I needed to total up a final cost. In the industry, this method is using to calculate how much a garment should be retailed for. However, as I do not plan on selling my garment, this would not apply to my company, but if I were to create a diffusion range, this would apply. I totaled up the cost of my material and threads etc. and applied VAT and labour costs. I used the following equation. Total Cost + Labour x 3 + VAT x 20 = Total Retail Cost. I have also included some of my lay plans, which would be used to save money on amounts of fabric bought, when creating mass production of certain items of clothing. My items are one off and will not be mass produced, however, they are still needed to keep unnecessary costs down.
DESIGN BOARD IDEAS
Looking back at previous projects and the feedback that I have received based on my design boards, I now know that I need to develop my boards to look more professional and appropriate to my theme. This first board was inspired by the black cut out card on the first page of my sketchbook, inspired by geometric shapes. I decided cut out black card using stencils and a scalpel to achieve a high quality result. I then took my developed illustrations and applied them to my board, weaving the illustrations, wherever appropriate through the black card, which I would then stick to the white card. Black card looks better on the white instead of the opposite, as black card gives a higher quality finish and I found that white becomes tacky very easily.
This board is another idea for a design board. I decided to take a different approach, by cutting up black card evenly on the guillotine, before sticking it to my board in even sections. To stick down items to my board, instead of using a glue stick, I have used spray mount in a spray booth, as it gives a more professional finish and prevents any messy glue marks on the card. I then took a stencil and drew several different shapes onto my board, shading using 2B and 4B artist pencils, to give an effective 3D effect. I also created a rough idea of a logo in the bottom corner, however I decided against this as I think that a creative font would be more appropriate. If I decide on this board to be my final idea, I will develop it further.
This idea is another development of my final design boards. I have used geometric shapes, which are very fitting to my theme, to create a bold statement. I have used black felt pen to shade the shapes onto white card, making sure to not create any patchy areas, which was difficult. The pen also bled easily onto the white areas. I think that this board is bold and fits my theme well, however, if I were to use it, I would need to cut out black card using a scalpel to create a more desired effect.
This board is another idea for a design board. I decided to take a different approach, by cutting up black card evenly on the guillotine, before sticking it to my board in even sections. To stick down items to my board, instead of using a glue stick, I have used spray mount in a spray booth, as it gives a more professional finish and prevents any messy glue marks on the card. I then took a stencil and drew several different shapes onto my board, shading using 2B and 4B artist pencils, to give an effective 3D effect. I also created a rough idea of a logo in the bottom corner, however I decided against this as I think that a creative font would be more appropriate. If I decide on this board to be my final idea, I will develop it further.
PHOTOSHOOT IMAGERY
These images were produced from my photoshoot. I decided to use a model that was blonde and looked good with minimal makeup. Using my photoshoot story board for inspiration, my model had simple, pulled back into a low center parting ponytail, with bold winged eyeliner. My model fitted my garment perfectly and her figure and posture suited the design well. I used some simple block heel strappy heels in black, which added height to my culottes perfectly. I did not encounter any problems during my photoshoot and I am very pleased with the final outcome.
EDITORIAL INSPIRATION & PHOTOSHOOT STORYBOARD
This page is my inspiration for my editorial. I hope to make a magazine with my marketing report, press release and look book, in the form of an interview. This will prove difficult as I will need to ensure that I will include all of my marketing material within the interview. However, I am confident that the end result will be professional and will help me to further my skills. I will be using adobe indesign, teaching myself ways of making a magazine. I will use online videos and tutorials to help me do this. I will take inspiration from this page. I want a minimalistic approach with geometric aspects and designs in the magazine. Words such as 'Geometric', 'Minimal' and 'Shape' will be used in the magazine, to separate my images up as they have done on this page.
This is my Photoshoot storyboard. This moodboard represents the shapes, poses and styling that will take place in my Photoshoot. The makeup will be minimal, but to represent the geometric aspect, strong winged eyeliner will accommodate the eyelids. The hair will pulled back from a centre parting, to a low ponytail, with hair wrapped around to cover the bobble. The shoot will take place in a studio with a white background to make the garment stand out.
BELT CONSTRUCTION
I wanted to finish off my garment with a belt. It would tie the outfit together, aswell as covering the edges of the trousers, skirt and bodice. I wanted the belt to be made of leather, and be simple yet effective. Inspired by the image on a previous experimentation page, the belt will have ribbon weaved through. To create the belt, I took a piece of white PVC leather, and created a method of construction as I went along. I made slits throughout the leather for my ribbon and used PVA glue on the edges to prevent fraying. I did this because I did not want the belt to be bulky, it needed to sit flat. The leather would have proven difficult to sew. This solution looks effective and professional. I experimented with using black tape, instead of ribbon, but I came to the conclusion that black ribbon would tie better at the back. I left the back open, and it would come together by being tied, this looks original and still suits my market level.
BODICE CONSTUCTION
Originally I hoped to make a bodysuit as the top needed to sit under my trousers and my skirt with no bulk. I discussed the possible outcomes with my peers and we came to an agreement that a bodice would sit better under my trousers than a bodysuit. The bodice would need to be long enough to tuck into my trousers with no possibility of it lifting out, as my customer will be on the red carpet and this cannot be seen. I measured the length of the existing bodice block and added the appropriate length. I then developed the pattern to create a v neck and v back bodice. Using the pattern pieces, I created my facings. I began to sew up my bodice and I encountered a problem. I wanted a hidden fastening as I didn't want it to be seen for my customer to wear. I experimented using a concealed zip in the side, but it would not fit over the manikin, and hook and eye was not a modern and futuristic fastening. I researched into fastenings and I came to a conclusion of using a large topstitched zip, that would work effectively with my garment up the back. I began again and created a new bodice out of calico, using a topstitched zip that sit well with my fabric. I will be using drill cotton in black, as it worked very well in my trousers and gave a well finished look. Here I have experimented with different seams in my drill cotton fabric, to make sure it works well. I have created a top stitched hem, which I will be using to finish the hem of my garment. A retaining stitch, which will be used on my facings to maintain a good finish. An overlocked seam for the side and shoulder seams. An open seam and medium weight interfacing. I have also included my best patterns.
Making my bodice. I followed my adapted method of construction and used my patterns to cut out my black drill cotton. This fabric works very well as it is structured and I know that it will hold all of my embellishments on, aswell as being a good quality fabric and finish. Here is a step by step guide of how I made my final bodice using imagery of the final process. Once finished, I put my bodice on the manikin along with my trousers and skirt, to double check that it sits well, will not fall out and tucks in. The bodice fit perfectly, especially underneath the trousers, and no bulk was shown. The bodysuit would have definitely shown bulk, I made the right decision in making a bodice. The next step was to attach all of my embellished leather. I bought some PVC leather, as it was stronger and cracked better than the soft leather, which would make the process easier further along. I began by taking emulsion paint and painting the black PVC leather. I left to dry and used a hairdryer to speed the process along. Once dry, I cut out the fabric into different sized pieces that would create an effect of smaller pieces fading into larger ones on my bodice. I then sewed into the fabric and dried emulsion, using geometric lines and shapes in black thread on the sewing machine. This looked very effective, especially once cracked. I then pleated the leather with a fold in the middle, this enabled the leather to stand upright. I then sewed the leather to my garment, ensuring that no gaps were left and that the pieces stood upright. This task proved fiddly, but the final result looked very effective.
Making my bodice. I followed my adapted method of construction and used my patterns to cut out my black drill cotton. This fabric works very well as it is structured and I know that it will hold all of my embellishments on, aswell as being a good quality fabric and finish. Here is a step by step guide of how I made my final bodice using imagery of the final process. Once finished, I put my bodice on the manikin along with my trousers and skirt, to double check that it sits well, will not fall out and tucks in. The bodice fit perfectly, especially underneath the trousers, and no bulk was shown. The bodysuit would have definitely shown bulk, I made the right decision in making a bodice. The next step was to attach all of my embellished leather. I bought some PVC leather, as it was stronger and cracked better than the soft leather, which would make the process easier further along. I began by taking emulsion paint and painting the black PVC leather. I left to dry and used a hairdryer to speed the process along. Once dry, I cut out the fabric into different sized pieces that would create an effect of smaller pieces fading into larger ones on my bodice. I then sewed into the fabric and dried emulsion, using geometric lines and shapes in black thread on the sewing machine. This looked very effective, especially once cracked. I then pleated the leather with a fold in the middle, this enabled the leather to stand upright. I then sewed the leather to my garment, ensuring that no gaps were left and that the pieces stood upright. This task proved fiddly, but the final result looked very effective.
SKIRT CONSTRUCTION
Toile development of skirt. When drafting out my patterns I used my specification drawings as a guide. Originally, I preferred a longer skirt to sit over my trousers with a strong ruffled hem. I used a very stretchy jersey fabric, as my chosen material, scuba, would be very similar to sew. Due to the fabric being so stretchy, a lock stitch would not accommodate the fabric, as when the fabric is stretched, the thread would snap. Therefore, I overlocked the skirt, as this would hold the stitch much stronger. I made the ruffles 20cm wide, as I wanted them to be a statement in my skirt. I began by making my original idea of a longer skirt, however, once putting on the manikin with my trousers, I knew that it was not the right choice. My customer wears daring outfits, and the long skirt was the opposite and I didn't feel it fit current trends and influences. I immediately began again, this time reducing the amount of length, and this time the outcome was much more successful. Instead of using an interfaced waistband, which would not work with my fabric - which is heavy and difficult to manipulate. I used an elastic waistband, this helped to hold my garment up well on the manikin, aswell as making my material sit flat.
This is my adapted method of construction for my skirt. Measurements have been adjusted as I have changed the length of the skirt. My material is white neoprene, also known as scuba. It is a futuristic and modern material that is very on trend. It sits well, it sculpts the figure, and is definitely one of SS16's biggest trends. Here I have experimented with the overlooking machine, to make sure it works well with my fabric before beginning my final garment. I originally wanted my hem to be topstitched, as shown on my specification drawing, as I thought that this would add to the way I wanted the ruffles to fall. However, instead of lock-stitching the hem, I have used a cover seam. The machine was much easier to use for my material and gives a neater finish with two rows of stitching - as shown on the left hand page in blue thread. However, I also wanted to experiment with using no hem. At first I was sceptical, however, after experimenting in my sketchbook and on my garment, I know that having no hem was the much better option as the fabric falls much better. This is the making process of my garment, the sewing of my fabric using the overlocker was very easy and I came across no obstacles. I found that stretching my elastic to my fabric was very difficult, and needed a lot of patience when sewing as it was very easy to make a mistake and my fabric would show this. I am very pleased with the outcome of my final skirt and it definitely defines my theme, market level and customer.
This is my adapted method of construction for my skirt. Measurements have been adjusted as I have changed the length of the skirt. My material is white neoprene, also known as scuba. It is a futuristic and modern material that is very on trend. It sits well, it sculpts the figure, and is definitely one of SS16's biggest trends. Here I have experimented with the overlooking machine, to make sure it works well with my fabric before beginning my final garment. I originally wanted my hem to be topstitched, as shown on my specification drawing, as I thought that this would add to the way I wanted the ruffles to fall. However, instead of lock-stitching the hem, I have used a cover seam. The machine was much easier to use for my material and gives a neater finish with two rows of stitching - as shown on the left hand page in blue thread. However, I also wanted to experiment with using no hem. At first I was sceptical, however, after experimenting in my sketchbook and on my garment, I know that having no hem was the much better option as the fabric falls much better. This is the making process of my garment, the sewing of my fabric using the overlocker was very easy and I came across no obstacles. I found that stretching my elastic to my fabric was very difficult, and needed a lot of patience when sewing as it was very easy to make a mistake and my fabric would show this. I am very pleased with the outcome of my final skirt and it definitely defines my theme, market level and customer.
