SKIRT CONSTRUCTION

Toile development of skirt. When drafting out my patterns I used my specification drawings as a guide. Originally, I preferred a longer skirt to sit over my trousers with a strong ruffled hem. I used a very stretchy jersey fabric, as my chosen material, scuba, would be very similar to sew. Due to the fabric being so stretchy, a lock stitch would not accommodate the fabric, as when the fabric is stretched, the thread would snap. Therefore, I overlocked the skirt, as this would hold the stitch much stronger. I made the ruffles 20cm wide, as I wanted them to be a statement in my skirt. I began by making my original idea of a longer skirt, however, once putting on the manikin with my trousers, I knew that it was not the right choice. My customer wears daring outfits, and the long skirt was the opposite and I didn't feel it fit current trends and influences. I immediately began again, this time reducing the amount of length, and this time the outcome was much more successful. Instead of using an interfaced waistband, which would not work with my fabric - which is heavy and difficult to manipulate. I used an elastic waistband, this helped to hold my garment up well on the manikin, aswell as making my material sit flat. 

This is my adapted method of construction for my skirt. Measurements have been adjusted as I have changed the length of the skirt. My material is white neoprene, also known as scuba. It is a futuristic and modern material that is very on trend. It sits well, it sculpts the figure, and is definitely one of SS16's biggest trends. Here I have experimented with the overlooking machine, to make sure it works well with my fabric before beginning my final garment. I originally wanted my hem to be topstitched, as shown on my specification drawing, as I thought that this would add to the way I wanted the ruffles to fall. However, instead of lock-stitching the hem, I have used a cover seam. The machine was much easier to use for my material and gives a neater finish with two rows of stitching - as shown on the left hand page in blue thread. However, I also wanted to experiment with using no hem. At first I was sceptical, however, after experimenting in my sketchbook and on my garment, I know that having no hem was the much better option as the fabric falls much better. This is the making process of my garment, the sewing of my fabric using the overlocker was very easy and I came across no obstacles. I found that stretching my elastic to my fabric was very difficult, and needed a lot of patience when sewing as it was very easy to make a mistake and my fabric would show this. I am very pleased with the outcome of my final skirt and it definitely defines my theme, market level and customer.

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Labels: Making