Originally I hoped to make a bodysuit as the top needed to sit under my trousers and my skirt with no bulk. I discussed the possible outcomes with my peers and we came to an agreement that a bodice would sit better under my trousers than a bodysuit. The bodice would need to be long enough to tuck into my trousers with no possibility of it lifting out, as my customer will be on the red carpet and this cannot be seen. I measured the length of the existing bodice block and added the appropriate length. I then developed the pattern to create a v neck and v back bodice. Using the pattern pieces, I created my facings. I began to sew up my bodice and I encountered a problem. I wanted a hidden fastening as I didn't want it to be seen for my customer to wear. I experimented using a concealed zip in the side, but it would not fit over the manikin, and hook and eye was not a modern and futuristic fastening. I researched into fastenings and I came to a conclusion of using a large topstitched zip, that would work effectively with my garment up the back. I began again and created a new bodice out of calico, using a topstitched zip that sit well with my fabric. I will be using drill cotton in black, as it worked very well in my trousers and gave a well finished look. Here I have experimented with different seams in my drill cotton fabric, to make sure it works well. I have created a top stitched hem, which I will be using to finish the hem of my garment. A retaining stitch, which will be used on my facings to maintain a good finish. An overlocked seam for the side and shoulder seams. An open seam and medium weight interfacing. I have also included my best patterns.
Making my bodice. I followed my adapted method of construction and used my patterns to cut out my black drill cotton. This fabric works very well as it is structured and I know that it will hold all of my embellishments on, aswell as being a good quality fabric and finish. Here is a step by step guide of how I made my final bodice using imagery of the final process. Once finished, I put my bodice on the manikin along with my trousers and skirt, to double check that it sits well, will not fall out and tucks in. The bodice fit perfectly, especially underneath the trousers, and no bulk was shown. The bodysuit would have definitely shown bulk, I made the right decision in making a bodice. The next step was to attach all of my embellished leather. I bought some PVC leather, as it was stronger and cracked better than the soft leather, which would make the process easier further along. I began by taking emulsion paint and painting the black PVC leather. I left to dry and used a hairdryer to speed the process along. Once dry, I cut out the fabric into different sized pieces that would create an effect of smaller pieces fading into larger ones on my bodice. I then sewed into the fabric and dried emulsion, using geometric lines and shapes in black thread on the sewing machine. This looked very effective, especially once cracked. I then pleated the leather with a fold in the middle, this enabled the leather to stand upright. I then sewed the leather to my garment, ensuring that no gaps were left and that the pieces stood upright. This task proved fiddly, but the final result looked very effective.
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