TROUSER CONSTRUCTION

Toile development of trousers - I began by drafting the patterns for my trousers by analysing my specification drawings. I wanted well fitting trousers, with slightly flared bottoms like culottes, and in the front would be a black godet up the front. I drafted out my pattern pieces, using the length of my trouser piece to measure the length of my godet. I then used my pattern pieces to create my facings. I then cut my pieces out in two different fabrics. Going along, I used my method of construction to create my trousers. Using the manikin as a guide to how well my trousers would fit. At first, I wanted to use a normal topstitch zip, however I later changed my mind as I knew that a concealed zip would fit my market level better as it would sit better under my skirt and within the fabric. I found that making the godet points level and even was difficult and required a lot of manipulation of the fabric to reach those points, however they create a clean and aesthetic finish. I have also included my best patterns on this page. 

This page shows my method of construction that I have created specific to my trousers. I have also included some samples of construction using a similar fabric to mine, to make sure that the seams work well with the fabric. On the bottom left is some medium weight interfacing for my facings. I have used medium weight interfacing because it is very effective, the heavy weight would have been too bulky and would not suit my material, drill cotton. Next is a dart, I have used darts in my trousers because they keep it well fitted in the back and makes the fabric sit well. Next is my hem, I have used an overlocked and topstitch hem in my trousers because it does not pull too heavy on my garment, maintaining flow and movement in the flared bottoms. In my trousers I needed to change over the thread colour when sewing the hem, as my godet sits on the hemline. On the right page is my concealed zip, I have used the concealed zip as it sits very well within my fabric and works well. I will have a skirt on top of my trousers, and this zip reduced bulkiness. I have used an open seam in my godet and trousers, I first overlocked the edges to give a neat finish, before sewing the seam, it sits well and flat under the trouser leg, I have also used an overlocked seam in the side seams of my trousers, to keep any raw edges neat, suitable for my market level. When doing the facings, a retaining stitch was needed to make sure that it folded in well and gave a clean finish. This was very effective.

Here is my final garment, during the making process, I did not encounter any problems. I used my method of construction and my toile to guide me through the process and work independently. I have used drill cotton as a fabric, as it is more hardwearing, structured and fitted than a material such as calico. It also gives an expensive and clean look to my garment. The material was easy to sew, interface and overlock.

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Labels: Making